Indian Head: DP Corkscrew Chimney Rerouted?

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Re: Indian Head: DP Corkscrew Chimney Rerouted?

New postby kennykb » Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:58 pm

At the bottom of where the Crack finally opens out, there's a ledge that angles very steeply up to the left. It's horribly exposed, and I felt safer in the Crack itself since I had no problem getting up - it's more technique than strength. But that ledge goes all the way around to the top, with nothing more than boulder scramble. There aren't any horrible technical moves, "just" a lethal exposure from a narrow ledge.

These folks are showing what it looks like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo4IMmXBbZ0

As I said, the Crack is safer, but if you absolutely can't find a move that gets you up it, the ledge is easier technically.

The way I did that 35-foot slab on Slide was to come up on the south side of it as far as it's easy boulder scramble. There's a crack right in front of your nose at that point that has a lot of good holds, but for me it's off width. I'd be climbing outside it and reaching in, and that's no fun. I had a full pack that day (I was doing a 3-night outing) and didn't think I could do it safely with a pack throwing me off balance.

Instead, from the base of that crack, there's a solid edge a couple of inches wide that you can follow around all the way to the north side of it, where there's about a waist-high mantel (on me, but I'm tallish) and a little bit more boulder scramble back to obvious trail. You can balance by holding onto tree roots just about the whole way.

If you look at the five pictures starting at https://www.flickr.com/photos/mountainvisions/3183604743/in/photostream/, Amy shows how it's done. She gets up on the edge on the left-hand (south) side, works it all the way across to the right (north), and scrambles up to the broad ledge at the top. It's easier than the pictures make it look. Just keep your head and move deliberately.

I've only done the west side of Cornell once. I don't remember the specific lemon squeezer you're asking about, but I probably was able to get good friction holds on the two sides. The rock up there is grippy as sandpaper. I wasn't even in approach shoes, just trail runners.
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Re: Indian Head: DP Corkscrew Chimney Rerouted?

New postby kennykb » Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:22 pm

Oh, here's another take on the Cornell Crack, which I'd say is somewhere between "how not to do it" and "Darwin is waiting."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbaFE2Hat8E

The first guy exits the Crack about the way I do it. Walk up until it's too narrow, place a boot on the right-hand wall and shove. No arm strength required.

They all need ice axes and crampons. I don't know how the guy starting at 1:27 managed not to kill himself.
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Re: Indian Head: DP Corkscrew Chimney Rerouted?

New postby rkugel » Fri Aug 21, 2015 7:29 am

Hi Kevin,

Thank you for sharing the youtube clips and photos. The "alternate" route for Cornell Crack looks a bit too dangerous for me. I think I'll stick with the crack itself. The winter footage was quite humorous watching those guys struggle up the crack - except for the fact that they could have killed themselves.

As for the 35 foot ledge on Slide, if I am ascending, I will climb up on that narrow ledge at the leftmost location. As mentioned, the ledge is very narrow (only a few inches) but it's wide enough to navigate with a reasonable level of safety. If you walk the ledge to the rightmost location, the top of the cliff is considerably lower and it is fairly easy to climb up to the top. Going down, I do the same procedure in reverse.

Rich
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